Hi everyone! Today I am bringing ya'll a tutorial that I thought some of ya'll would love. It's a tutorial on how to turn a 2 dart Straight Skirt into a Flared Skirt. Like I stated on yesterday's post, I am using a half scale pattern so that it is easier for ya'll to see what I am doing. You will just do the same thing to a full size pattern. I have written the regular size pattern measurements and just cut them in half for the "half-scales."
First, I have my FRONT 2-dart half scale pattern piece. You will do the exact same thing to the back pattern piece. I will trace this half scale (you the full scale) pattern piece onto a sheet of paper. My half scale pattern that I will trace is Orange and I will trace it onto a white paper. You can use Pattern tracing interfacing paper to trace your full size pattern, which works wonderfully and doesn't mess up your old pattern piece for the straight skirt with 2 darts.
Now I have a white half scale pattern piece and have chosen to make the adjustments over an orange cardstock so that ya'll can see what I am doing better. Make sure that you add a Horizontal Balance Line to the middle of the skirt. You do this by making a line perpendicular to the Center Front or Center Back of a skirt pattern. A clear ruler is usually the best way to mark a HBL. It will run parallel to the floor to make sure your fabric is aligned and not all wonky.
Now, we will draw lines from dart points to hemlines parallel with the center front & center back lines. Another way to make sure they are straight is to make the lines perpendicular to the HBL by using a clear ruler.
Now Cut out your pattern piece but don't cut out your whole darts. I find it easier when I don't cut out the whole dart, and instead just cut down one side of the dart leg for each dart really close to the dart point but not TO the dart point. I have marked the dart leg I am going to cut with a RED line. It will now be posted on orange card stock so that ya'll can see better.
Now you will cut from the hemline to very close to the dart point AND from one dart leg to very close to the dart point. CAUTION: Make sure you DO NOT cut all the way through the dart point!! Leave a small dot, the dart point, there to hold the pattern together. Cut as close as possible without cutting it completely apart.
Now you will Close the darts by taping them together at the dart legs.
Now you will mark the dart closest to the Hip Line as A and B.
(as shown on photo above)
Measure the distance between A and B and then cut that measurement in HALF and add it to the hip line. (as shown below) This is to even out the flare. My distance for A & B was 1 1/4" in half scale pattern, so 5/8" would be what I would add to my Hip Line. (yours will be much greater since it is a full size pattern) As you can see there is a tiny red dot with a tiny red line to the top and right of the dot to mark where my 5/8" measurement is at. See picture below and to the left of hemline.
By using a Styling Design Ruler that I purchased at JoAnn's I will blend the new hip line in.
This ruler is great for patternmaking and adjusting patterns because it has a curved and a straight side. The top of my line will begin at the little green mark at the top of my hip line. I usually start the line at where my dart points end and blend it in to the top of my hip line, all the way down to my new hemline point.
I don't know if you can tell from the below picture, but I used the 10" to 17" side of the curved ruler to blend my new line. (It was taken with my phone camera and didn't come out very well. Sorry)
Also, use the curved ruler to make the new hemline. Blend in the lines, it's ok if you cut a bit off some lines as long as it is blended in nicely. You can probably tell at the hemline where the old line (green) is overlapped in some areas by the new line (red) to create a smoother hemline.
here it is zoomed in:
I also hash marked the old hip line as to not confuse us anymore. No longer needed. Also, you may blend the waistline using your curved ruler to make a nicer waistline. It is your choice to add 1/2" to 3/4" hem and any remaining seam allowances if your pattern does not already include them.
Now you will do this for the back piece of skirt. Once you have both skirts done you will balance the side seams. (I will go over this on tomorrow's post)
Hope you enjoyed today's tutorial. Don't forget to leave me a comment and let me know if you will try this out and what you think. Should I do more of these tutorials? Be sure to follow my blog, share, Like my page on
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